Along Your Way Santa Fe Railway 1946

Albuquerque to Ash Fork

Albuquerque

Rio Puerco, N. M. (Spanish, means "dusty river") -- Alt. 5,099; pop. 20. On Rio Puerco River, tributary of Rio Grande. A few miles below is view of Ladrone mountains. From Rio Puerco to Continental Divide the railway ascends valley of San Jose River.

Suwanee, N. M. -- Alt. 5,448; pop. 15. Three miles southwest of station and 1 mile south of track is extinct geyser crater, serveral centuries old. The crater, on top of low mound rising from plain, is 40 feet across and 15 feet deep, with deeper central pit from which water once issued with vigorous geyser action.

Laguna, N. M. (Spanish, means "lake") -- Alt. 5,788; pop. of twp. 800. Station for Laguna pueblo, 3 miles distant, inhabited by 1,091 Indians. This very picturesque pueblo (San Jose de la Laguna), was founded in 1699 by residents of Acoma Zia, Zuni and other places and located on high rock near San Jose River. Old parish church contains largest painting ever made on elkskin. Several battles fought here with Navajos and Apaches. Laguna Indians also occupy tributary villages of Paquate, Mesita, Encinal, Casa Blanca and others. Twelve miles south lies the "sky city" of Acoma ("people of the white rock"), an Indian pueblo on a mesa 400 feet high, founded in prehistoric times and first heard of by Friar Marcos de Niza in 1539. Here, in 1599, Spanards conquered Acomas in three days' battle. On rock of Acoma stands the old and massive adobe church, all materials from which were brought from plain below up steep trail on backs of men. The Enchanted Mesa, is on way to Acoma; the Indian tradition is that on this mesa was situated prehistoric village of Katzimo.

The church of Laguna and a few buildings can be seen from station. Annual fiesta at Acoma, takes place September 2, and at Laguna, September 19.

Cubero, N. M. (Spanish, means "copper") -- Alt. 5,924; pop. of twp. 1340. Mexican village of Cubera (named after an early Spanish governor), 8 miles distant. Small Mexican settlement one-half mile from track on right formerly was a Laguna Indian pueblo. San Mateo Mountains on north, Cubero to Grants, and Cebolta Mountains, south.

Acomita, N. M. -- Alt. 6.034; pop. 25. One mile east on hill south of track, and extending on valley floor to point near of station, an Indian pueblo of Acomita or little Acoma -- a primitive and picturesque village inhabited by 500 Acoma Indians, particularly during the farming season. U. S. Govt. Indian school.

McCartys, N. M. (named derived from ranch crossed by original rail line) -- Alt. 6,168. One mile west, south of track, is the small Indian village of Pueblito. Mount Taylor (11,389 ft.) to north, located in San Mateo range, was named for Pres. Zachary Taylor; each spring Pueblo Indians ascend to top to invoke the rain gods. Between mile posts 85 and 89 the rails run through small canyon, floor of which is covered with heavy black lava-flow deposit of geologically recent times.

Grants, N. M. (named for Grant Brothers, contractors of original rail line) -- Alt. 6,457; pop. 1,500. Center of sheep industry in this section. Zuni Mountains southwest. San Rafael Mexican village on way to Zuni Mountains. At both San Rafael and Cubero strange rites of Penitentes are performed. Four large vegetable packing sheds. Large fluor spar ore deposits, and largest pumice ore deposit in U. S. found here.

Toltec, N. M. -- Alt. 6,541. Nearest view of Mount Taylor.

Bluewater, N. M. -- Alt. 6,628; pop. of twp. 590. Mormon settlement south of track in wide valley. Low cone, north of track, called Pintedra ("inkstand"), whence lava once flowed. Dam at head Bluewater Canyon in Zuni Mountains 10 miles northwest forms lake 7 by 3 miles in extent, which has been stocked with bass and trout. Commercial growing of carrots, lettuce, cauliflower, beets, beans and cabbage done here.

Chaves, N. M. (named for Spanish land grantee) -- Alt. 6,988. Steep and highly-colored red standstone cliffs or mesa fronts north of track, from here to beyond Gallup.

Thoreau, N. M. (believed named for Henry David Thoreau) -- Alt. 7,117; pop of twp. 1,515. From this station, which is 3 miles east of Continental Divide, Chaco Canyon may be reached -- see description under heading Gallup station. Pueblo Bonito Indian school is 30 miles north.

Guam, N. M. (named after Pacific Island) -- Alt. 6,993; pop. 20. Trading post. Crest of Continental Divide at Campbell's Pass, near Gonzales station. Between Guam and Wingate are Navajo Church and Pyramid Rock, north of track.

Perea, N. M. -- Alt. 6,849; pop. 12. Puerco Creek and Zuni Mountains on south. Heavy white pine timber district in Zuni Mountains.

Wingate, N. M. (named for Captain Benjamin Wingate) -- Alt. 6,736; pop. of twp. 461. On the south is inscription rock (El Morro National Monument). On its walls are hundreds of inscriptions extending over period of 300 years, the earliest of which, still decipherable, recites the return of the Adelantado (governor) and Captain-General Juan de Onate from his discovery of Gulf of California in 1606; another inscription is that of Vargas who reconquered New Mexico in 1692. (Also reached from Gallup.) Three miles south of Wingate, at foot of bluff, is old Fort Wingate, where after the Mexican civil war began, 4,000 Mexican federal soldiers and their families were interned. This fort now converted into Navajo Indian school; capacity 800 students.

Gallup, N. M. (named for Tom Gallup, locating engineer for the old Altantic and Pacific R. R.) -- Alt. 6,506; pop. 8000. County seat of McKinley County. Most extensive coal-mining district in western New Mexico. Was station on old Pony Express -- old building still standing. Important trading point for Navajo reservation to north and Zuni reservation south. U. S. Indian agency at Window Rock, 26 miles northwest, administers entire Navajo reservation of 16,000,000 acres in New Mexico, Arizona and Utah. The Navajos number about 50,000. In their own tongue they call themselves Dinneh, meaning "the people" but by early Spaniards were first called Apaches de Navajo, or "Apaches of the cultivated fields." They are nomads, owning large flocks of sheep and herds of cattle. The women weave find blankets on crude looms while the men work in silver, making beautiful ornaments set with turquoise. Old military posts at Ft. Defiance, 33 miles nortwest and Ft. Wingate, 14 miles east. Canyon de Chelly, and Canyon del Muerto, which join Chinle valley and contain many prehistoric cliff dwellings, are 95 miles northwest of Gallup by auto; Kit Carson captured hostile Navajos here in 1863. Rainbow Natural Bridge, on the north slope of Navajo mountain was first discovered in 1909; reached via Chinle and Kayenta by motor and saddle trip.

Zuni Pueblo, population 2,021, largest Indian pueblo in U. S., is 38 miles south of Gallup. U. S. Govt. Indian school, hospital, and sub-agency for these Indians at Blackrock, 36 miles south of Gallup. Hawiakuh, one of the Seven Cities, was seen by Friar Marcos de Niza in 1539; in the following year Coronado stormed this pueblo and captured it. Zuni has six kivas, or sacred chambers, where many ancient ceremonies take place. The Shalako, most famous of Zuni ceremonials, is usually held early in December.

Annual Inter-Tribal Indian Ceremonial is held at Gallup -- usually the middle of August.

Chaco Canyon National Monument, 98 miles northeast, contains the finest prehistoric ruins in United States. National Geographic Society has made excavations for scientific research. Three ruins have been partially uncovered -- the Chettro Kettle, Pueblo Bonito and Pueblo del Arroyo, each a community house of 400 to 1,000 rooms, sheltering several thousand people.

Gallop is the gateway to Mesa Verde National Park, about 165 miles north. Mesa Verde contains the finest cliff dwelling ruins in U. S.

This is one of the gateways to Hopiland and Snake Dance, via St. Michaels (Franciscan mission for Navajos), Ganado and Keam's Canyon, through Navajo reservation. Fred Harvey station hotel, El Navajo, contains famous Navajo sand paintings.

Gallup is a busy mainline terminal on the Santa Fe. Improvements made in district terminal yards here have increased capacity of yards an additional 695 cars.

Manuelito, N. M. -- Alt. 6,252; pop. 47. Named for Navajo chieftan, very wealthy and powerful. South of station are remains of a once flourishing stage coach post of pre-railroad days.

Arizona

Lupton, Ariz. (named for George W. Lupton, former Santa Fe official) -- Alt. 6,159; pop. 75. Trading post. Curious sandstone formations are on each side of track -- red, brown, yellow above, hollowed out and worn smooth by winds. State line New Mexico and Arizona at east end of village.

Houck, Ariz. (named for James D. Houeck, sheepman) -- Alt. 5,960; pop. 69. Trading post, founded in 1879. Indian name is Mi-E-Toh. Situated at junction Black Canyon and Rio Puerto rivers, on Old Santa Fe Trail.

Navajo, Ariz. (Indian name for "a pool where cattle drink") -- Alt. 5,630; pop. 50. At Navajo Springs, Dec. 29, 1863, Arizona was formally organized as a territory. Jacob's Well, 12 miles south. Prehistoric ruins in vicinity. At local trading post is meteorite weighing two tons. Sacred Lake of Zuni Indians on ranch 40 miles south, where Zuni ceremonies occur every four years. Mineral water of great efficacy.

Adamana, Ariz. (named for Adam Hanna, a Scotch sheepman) -- Alt. 5,292; pop. of twp. 25. On Rio Puerco River. A few miles south of track lie 3 of 5 petrified forests, located in this region; 2 are nine miles north of track. Thousands of acres here are covered with agatized fossil remains of gigantic prehistoric trees. This is one of America's wonderful natural exhibits. The First, Second and Third forests cover 11,000 acres and have bee created a National monument.

Holbrook, Ariz. (named after H. R. Holbrook chief engineer of the old Atlantic & Pacific R. R.) -- Alt. 5,080; pop. 2000. County seat Navajo County. Farming and stock raising. Third Petrified Forest lies 18 miles east. Holbrook is point of departure for Navajo and Hopi reservations to north, also Mormon settlements and White River Apache country to south. Apache Ry, to south taps large forest of pine timber, on Sitgreaves National Forest, with modern lumber mill at McNary. Little Colorado River south of track is followed for some distance. Largest shipping point in northern Arizona for sheep and cattle.

Joseph City, Ariz. -- Alt. 5,080; pop. 450. Prosperous Mormon settlement, established in 1876. Large area irrigated from reservoir filled from Little Colorado River by dams.

Cross Little Colorado River

Winslow, Ariz. (named for General Edward N. Winslow, former president St. Louis & San Francisco R. R.) -- Alt. 4,843; pop. 6,088. "The Meteor City," so called on account Meteor Mountain, 23 miles west of city. Mountain's crater is 600 feet deep and three miles around and was formed by a huge meteorite. Distinctive new Fred Harvey station hotel, La Posada. Near by Winslow are Hopi Indian Villages, Navajo country, Rainbow Bridge and beautiful Flagstaff region. Hopi buttes discrenable on northern sky-line. Little Colorado River, crossed 2 miles east; this stream empties into Colorado River at Grand Canyon. Painted desert northwest. Cattle and sheep raising section. Winslow is an important Santa Fe division and shop point. Through this section of country passengers will see Santa Fe's fleet of giant 5400 H. P. freight Diesel locomotives at work pulling long freights up mountain grades and over desert sections. These big locomotives are well suited for this type of railroading. Important district terminal yards here have been increased to accomodate an additional 743 cars of freight. Other improvements include building of shops to service Diesel locomotives.

Canyon Diablo, Ariz. (Devil's Canyon) -- Alt. 5,418; pop. 36. Train passes over gash in plateau 225 feet deep, 550 feet wide and many miles long, on high steel bridge. Interesting Indian trading post and exhibit here. Beyond Canyon Diablo lies Canyon Padre, where begins immense Coconino National Forest, part of largest forest of ponderosa pine in world (400 miles long).

Flagstaff, Ariz. (Boston immigrants arriving here in 1876 stripped a small pine tree and used it as a flag staff -- hence the name Flagstaff) -- Alt. 6,902; pop. 7,500. County seat of Coconino County with area of 18,236 square miles. Situated in Coconino National Forest. First sawmill on Santa Fe railway established here in 1882, has been operated continuously, with sustained yield of timber assured from Coconino National Forest. Northern Arizona Teachers College. San Francisco Peaks rise to nearly 13,000 feet, forming part of great volcanic uplift and highest point in Arizona. To the north rises Mt. Elden, 9,300 feet. Largest winter sports area in Southwest, 10,000 ft. up on San Francisco Peaks. North ten miles is Sunset Mountain, extinct volcanic cone of cinders and almost pure sulpher. Six miles south is Walnut Canyon, 14 miles long, with scores of ancient cliff dwellings. Sixty miles south in Montezuma;s Castle, a well preserved, five story ruin built in a recess of a limestone Cliff -- 8 miles northeast is Montezuma's Well. Northeast are pueblo ruins in Wupatki National Monument; Grand Falls of Little Colorado River; the Painted Desert and Hopi and Navajo Indian reservations; petrified forests, Blue Canyon and Coal Canyon, Navajo Bridge, near historic crossing over Big Colorado river; Rainbow Natural Bridge and Monument Valley, etc. Montezuma Lodge and Mormon Lake Cabina provide accomodations. Pictureque Oak Creek Lodge, 20 miles south. Lowell Observatory, seen on hill to right on leaving station, is noted for its astronomical studies of planet Mars. Natural Bridge 85 miles southeast, is 190 feet high. Ten miles north, at foot of Peaks, is Fort Valley, U. S. Forest Service experimental station. Two 50,000,000-gallon concrete reservoirs supply town and railroad with mountain water. Excellent hotels available. Cool climate and a variety of scenic attractions made Flagstaff Arizona's chief summer resort. Log lodge and highway completed. 1,750 ft. ski tow in operation. U. S. Forest selected Flagstaff as perfect location for this slide. Annual Southwestern Indian Pow-Wow.

Williams, Ariz. (named for Bill Williams, noted Indian Scout and guide to Gen. Fremont in 1848.) -- Alt. 6,748; pop. 2,616. Gateway to Grand Canyon National Park. Junction Santa Fe main line with branch to Grand Canyon, 64 miles north. In heart of Kaibab National Forest, at foot of Bill Williams Mountain. Horse and foot trail to summit of mountain, 9,642 feet. Williams is a recreational center -- horseback riding, fishing and hunting in season; winter sports; 9-hole golf course. Lumbering and stock raising. Sycamore Canyon, 24 miles south, often called "Minature Grand Canyon"; 3,000 feet deep, 3 to 5 miles wide. White Horse Lake 10 miles south; picnic grounds, fishing, swimming. Scenic road through game area to unique mining town of Jerome. Bottomless Pit, of unknown depth, viewed from train between Williams and Ash Fork. Williams is center of loop trips to beautiful canyons, extinct crater, and natural wonders of this section. Fred Harvey hotel located here named after Fray Marcos de Niza, first white man to reach Arizona.

Grand Canyon, Ariz. (name was first applied in 1869 by Major John Wesley Powell, noted geologist) -- Alt. (Hotel El Tovar) 6,868; pop. 700. Grand Canyon National Park embraces a great gorge, 217 miles long, from 4 to 18 miles wide, with maximum depth of one mile. It is 64 miles north of Williams. The canyon was discovered in 1540 by early Spanish explorers, but Major J. W. Powell was first white man to explore river and canyon. He voyaged the Colorado river from source to mouth in 1869; a memorial has been erected on the canyon rim by the government. Since Powell's time, several exploring parties have traversed this "titan of chasms" by boat. On rim, near railroad terminal, is El Tovar Hotel, (named for Don Pedro de Tovar if Coronados' army of 1540), built of pine logs in rustic style. Also Bright Angel Lodge and Cabins. Both are under management of Fred Harvey. There are many things going on at Grand Canyon, such as camping trips, foot trails to explore, and horseback rides. Trail trips are made on muleback, with experienced guides. East of El Tovar, are Yavapai and Desert View points. At Desert View point, overlooking the Painted Desert, stands the Watchtower, a re-creation of the prehistoric towers erected by ancient inhabitants of the American Southwest. A replica of Hopi Indian pueblo faces El Tovar; members of Hopi tribe live and work here. A few Navajos also may be seen. Suspension bridge across Colorado River, 11 miles from El Tovar hotel, affords direct access by trail to Phantom Ranch and North Rim. The south rim of Canyon is 7,000 feet above sea level, therefore cool all summer. Hotel and trails open all year. (See Santa Fe folder giving complete Grand Canyon information.)

Ash Fork, Ariz. (named because of ash trees growing in townsite) -- Alt. 5,128; pop. of twp. 1,200. Junction point where line to Phoenix branches from the transcontinental mainline. Fred Harvey station hotel, Escalante, named after Padre Francisco Silvestre Velez Escalante, a pioneer Franciscan priest who journeyed through Arizona in 1776. Picacho butte and Mount Floyd rise west and northwest. Cathedral Caves, in solid rock, 12 miles south. Cattle and sheep raising.

[Note: main line relocation in 1960 by-passes Ash Fork. Phoenix branch (Peavine) now uses old main line from Williams to Ash Fork]

Main line continues Ash Fork to Cadiz
Branch from Ash Fork to Phoenix